Along the crest of the Pyrenees with 'les others' magazine

Last October, Jean Hacquart and a crew from les others magazine set out to hike the crest of the Pyrenees mountains. Never far from the border between France and Spain, their mission included four days of playing among the clouds while discovering this wild and majestic range.

Introduction

It’s early October and the day is just beginning in the streets of Lourdes, France when our team gets together. Time to greet each other and eat one last croissant before we pile into the van and head for the mountains. Bouncing around in the back of the van, the crew gets to know each other – Fabien the photographer, lighting assistant Pierre-Olivier, and Martin from les others magazine – and as we’re talking, we discuss the route that we planned prior to leaving. Thinking fair weather would be a nice addition to the program, we also check the forecast for the next few days. The weather looks a bit variable though nothing so threatening that our project is in jeopardy.

Day 1: Gavarnie to Refuge des Sarradets 8.2 km // 1,260m (5.1 miles // 4,134 feet) elevation gain

Arriving at our point of departure, the village of Gavarnie, France, we head out to buy a few sausages that will be essential to the success of our journey. Our packs adjusted, water bottles filled, we begin walking due south as we dive into the heart of the Parc National des Pyrénées. Although the trail begins along the bottom of a gently rising valley, it’s not long before we leave the beautiful autumn foliage and find ourselves surrounded by immense rock walls. Higher yet, a 400-meter waterfall gushes from the middle of the cliffs. The scenery is breathtaking, especially since the cirque we’re in is now bathed in low-angled light. While it’s incredibly majestic, we’re beginning to wonder how we’re going to make it through these massive walls of stone.

Fortunately, we find a path on our right that connects the different ledges in the wall ahead. The ascent is not too exposed, yet there’s a wonderful feeling of empty space below. A few steep sections force us to momentarily stow our cameras so we can use our hands to hold onto the rock. As we leave this section, called the Échelle des Sarradets, the trail flattens out a bit making it an ideal place to wolf down our picnic while overlooking the morning’s itinerary.

The afternoon is easier as we head east towards the day’s destination, the Refuge des Sarradets. We rest at the refuge for a moment before leaving our bags and hiking to a famous gap in the cliff called Brèche de Roland, which serves as a point of passage between France and Spain. Unfortunately for us, the area is covered in thick clouds so instead, we go check out some snowfields and the remnants of a glacier. All this activity whets our appetites – it’s now 7 p.m. Time to find the refuge, and more specifically, dinner!

Day 2: Refuge des Sarradets to Refuge Baysselance 18 km // 1,090 m (11.18 miles // 3,576 feet) elevation gain

Back at home when we planned our route, we realized this second day would be a long one so this morning we leave without too much delay. This is especially important because we stop so often to take photos. We can’t miss opportunities like these!

"Throughout the day, our only companions are the yellow-billed choughs and enormous vultures that circle the surrounding peaks."

Our first kilometers are a long descent to the Port de Boucharo. From there, we have two options: dive down into Spain or, continue along the border. We choose the second option which takes us on less frequented trails. Even though our packs feel heavier on every ascent, the benefit of walking along the amazing crests is worth it. Throughout the day, our only companions are the yellow-billed choughs and enormous vultures that circle the surrounding peaks.

We break for lunch at a spot with a 360-degree panorama and a view of the highest peak in the French Pyrenees, the Vignemale, in the distance. Our refuge for the night is at its foot and we can see that we still have a long way to go! We follow the ridges for a while before descending into the high mountain pastures of the valley of Sausse Dessus. The trails are challenging to find here so it’s difficult to hide our pleasure when we finally join the well-travelled GR10 hiking route below.

Bad weather overtakes us while we still have nearly 800 meters of elevation to climb before reaching the Refuge Bayssellance. The ambiance is glorious, mystical, with rain-swept rocks and swirling clouds. This last climb is not easy, and we can see the fatigue in each other’s faces. Despite the difficulties, we continue to the refuge which gradually begins to appear through the fog, and it’s with intense joy that we pass in an instant from the cold, hostile outdoors into a warm refuge and a steaming bowl of soup next to a hot stove!

Day 3: Refuge Baysselance to Refuge Wallon-Marcadau 13.3 km // 710 m (8.26 miles // 2,329 feet) elevation gain

Yesterday’s intense effort is felt by all and this morning we’re tired. Thankfully, today looks like it should be easier, and best of all, we’re greeted by a blazing sun when we leave the refuge and continue eastward. There is a low pass to cross before we start a long descent under the gaze of the glaciers of the Vignemale. As we reach the valley, we arrive at the Refuge des Oulettes de Gaube where we treat ourselves to a break with hot chocolate and cookies, both to reward ourselves for the part of the trail we’ve already completed, and also, to give ourselves courage for what’s ahead.

After ascending to the Col des Mulets, we are back at the border, which provides an outstanding setting for lunch and a nap in the sun. Although we feel like staying for hours, we have to leave and after a brief passage through a cirque on the Spanish side of the border, we attack the slope that leads us to our day’s goal, the Refuge Wallon-Marcadau. As we descend, the cloud ceiling drops at the same pace as our steps, following us like a shadow. A shepherd, his animals and his dogs, a peaceful stream and then we’re there.

This refuge is immense, practically new. And there are so many people! A total contrast compared to our last few days. Exhausted by this loss of elevation, we savor the friendly atmosphere, the hearty meal, and especially the hot shower! Bathed and fed, it’s time to look at the map. For the next day, we had planned to hike 18 km (11.18 miles) while gaining more than 1,000 meters (3,281 feet) of elevation. But considering the state of the team (not exactly fresh) as well as a tight deadline to catch our shuttle, we decide to simplify things and go for a hike near the refuge instead.

Day 4: Refuge Wallon-Marcadau to Pont d’Espagne 6 km // 150 m (3.73 miles // 492 feet) elevation gain

We've got more time today, so we're going to enjoy it. We hike along the surrounding heights, we take loads of photos, we take a break next to a river. It works like this as well: knowing how to enjoy the surroundings by moving slowly and at times, not at all. Dozing off to the sound of water. Warming ourselves in the autumn sun that struggles to appear above the surrounding peaks. In some ways, this place resembles America’s Sierra Nevada range and its large, peaceful and infinite spaces.

Earlier, we’d made a plan with Elise (a girl we met at the refuge) to catch a ride with her down to the French town of Lourdes, so it’s time to get back on the trail. For the last five kilometers, there’s a spring in our steps as we follow the Marcadau Valley to a point on the map we’d previously agreed on.

An hour later and we’re on the station platform, waiting for our respective trains. With just enough time for a few jokes about the smell we’re going to inflict upon our fellow passengers, it’s time to say goodbye. We part with a mixture of fresh memories and future adventures filling our heads. We can’t wait for the next one!

Helpful hints

• As a major Catholic pilgrimage site, the train station at Lourdes is well-served thanks to the many Catholic pilgrimages made there. From Lourdes, catch a taxi or bus to Gavarnie, France.
• Take binoculars! Getting a close look at the wildlife and scenery is well worth the extra weight in your pack.
• Some sections of this route might be too exposed for some hikers. Don’t hesitate to turn back or take variations on the more frequented trails.
• Refuges fill up quickly so make a reservation in advance. Also, remember to call if you want to cancel or if you’re going to be late. If they don’t hear from you, the refuge staff might notify the rescue service.
• The route passes through the Parc National des Pyrénées so there are a few rules that apply, like a ban on dogs.
• There are places along the route where you won’t have cell phone coverage, so if you use your smartphone for navigation remember to download your maps in advance.